Frequently Asked Questions

Nationally, HomeGuide pegs an installed epoxy floor between $4 and $10 per square foot, roughly $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage, while the same guide prices polyaspartic from $5 to $12 per square foot. Old paint removal, crack repair, a slab that flooded and a flake or metallic finish all move the price. We measure and test first, then give you one written number.

Plain epoxy yellows in sunlight, takes longer to cure than polyaspartic, and gets slippery when wet if the finish is left smooth. It also fails when it is rolled onto unground or damp concrete. We deal with those by grinding, testing for moisture, adding texture and using a UV-stable topcoat wherever sun reaches the floor.

For most garages here we use both: epoxy as a thick base and a polyaspartic floor coating on top for UV resistance. In HomeGuide's UV ratings, polyaspartic scores excellent and gives epoxy only a poor-to-fair mark. Polyaspartic also returns to service faster, often within a day or two.

Usually, yes, once the slab has dried. Floodwater, especially salty surge, can stay in concrete for a while and push a coating off from below. We take moisture readings, check for salt residue and tell you whether the floor is ready, needs more time or needs a moisture-tolerant primer.

The answer turns on the system and the weather. HomeGuide advises waiting 2 to 7 days before parking on epoxy; with polyaspartic, heavy vehicles can return after 24 to 48 hours. At the end of the job we give you foot-traffic, furniture and parking times for your own floor.

We pick products for the job rather than pushing one brand everywhere. Your written quote names the manufacturer and product for each coat, so you can read the data sheets yourself before we start.

Some associations have rules about exterior work, colors or work hours, so check your documents or ask your manager. We can supply a written scope and product information for an approval request, and we will schedule around any limits they set.

Not over the paint. A new coating holds only as well as the layer beneath it, and old paint lets go. We grind the paint off, test the bare concrete and coat that.

Thin, water-based kits rolled onto unground concrete are the usual victims of hot tire pickup. A ground slab with a high-solids epoxy base and a polyaspartic topcoat bonds far better and resists it.

Hands-on work usually fills one or two days, depending on how much prep the slab needs and which system you choose. Parking comes later: HomeGuide says 2 to 7 days for epoxy, and less with a polyaspartic topcoat.

A smooth one can be. We broadcast flake or mix fine grit into the topcoat, and the doorway, where rain comes in, can get extra texture.

Wait until moisture readings say the slab is ready. We test at the estimate, check for salt and tell you whether to coat now, hold off, or go with a moisture-tolerant primer.

Yes. Whether you call it flake, chip or vinyl flake, it is the same finish: colored chips broadcast into an epoxy or polyaspartic base, then locked under a clear topcoat.

It adds texture, especially with a full broadcast and a thinner topcoat. Where floors are often wet, a gritted topcoat gives shoes more bite.

Mid-tone blends of grays and tans usually hide sand and dust well. Lay a few sample chips on your slab in the doorway and in shade before you choose.

Yes, with an outdoor-rated topcoat. Small carport and patio slabs often take a single day of work, and we check any community rules first.

For sun and speed, polyaspartic wins. HomeGuide scores polyaspartic excellent on UV versus poor to fair for epoxy, and gives polyaspartic a 1 to 2 day cure. Epoxy builds thicker per coat, so many systems use both.

HomeGuide lists heavy vehicle traffic after 24 to 48 hours and Bob Vila says about 24 hours for vehicles. On finishing day we give you a parking time for your particular floor and that day's conditions.

Often, yes, on a slab that does not need major repair. Heavy grinding or crack work may push it to two days.

Yes. Humid air and a slab close to the dew point can cloud the finish or weaken the bond, so we check readings before every coat and reschedule when needed.

If the old coating is still well bonded, we can sand it and apply a polyaspartic top. If it is peeling, it has to come off first.

It can, but plain epoxy yellows in sunlight and metallic shows tire marks. For a garage with the door open often, we usually suggest flake with a polyaspartic top, or metallic only with a UV-stable clear top.

A glossy surface loses grip once it is wet. Near sinks, bars and doors we mix grit into the clear layer or switch to a satin finish in kitchens, bars and near doors.

We remove the tile and its adhesive and coat the concrete underneath. Coating over tile risks cracks and delamination along the grout lines.

Usually several days for removal, prep, the metallic layer and the topcoat, plus cure time, which HomeGuide puts at as long as a week for epoxy.

Often, yes. Sections, overnight shifts or closed days all work, and fast-curing systems help. Bob Vila says a polyaspartic floor may keep a business closed just a day or two.

It depends on the heat and cleaning. Kitchens with hot water and steam cleaning often need urethane cement or a quartz-broadcast system with a chemical-resistant top. We recommend a build after seeing the space.

Yes. We can run the coating up the wall in one seamless piece so water and grime cannot collect where wall meets floor.

Ask your inspector what they require for your space. We hand over a written scope along with product data sheets so you can confirm before work starts.

Yes. We install thick epoxy systems with striping for fabrication shops, auto and marine bays, warehouses and storage spaces.

For open decks in full sun, a cool-deck texture or a textured overlay in a light color usually stays the most comfortable and grippy. HomeGuide lists Kool Deck as a non-slip finish that helps keep the surface cooler.

Plain epoxy yellows in sun, so we avoid it on open decks. Under a lanai roof or screen, a chip system finished in UV-stable polyaspartic performs well.

Usually a few dry days for prep, resurfacing and cure, depending on the system and the weather. Your quote includes a timeline, and we shift it when storms roll in.

We route and fill cracks with flexible material first. Cracks from a moving or sinking slab may need structural repair first, and we point that out at the estimate.

Yes. Covered lanais often get flake with a polyaspartic top, and open patios usually get a cool-deck texture or overlay.